Kratovo

Built in the crater of an extinct volcano, Kratovo is known for its towers and bridges. The Ottomans built the four stone bridges over the Tabačka river between the 17th and 19th centuries. Kratovo has a pleasant, laid-back atmosphere, and its authenticity grabbed me at first sight. If there's one place I'd like to go back to, it is Kratovo. Kurt Hielscher published seven photos from here in his 1926 Yugoslavia photoalbum and I missed quite some. Below the results. I could spend a whole week here and maybe I should do that a next time!?

Grofčanski Most, Kratovo, 1926 vs. the 26th of June 2018. Photos: Kurt Hielscher & Casper Molenaar. 

The Grofčanski Most was not so hard to find in Kratovo since it is one of its characteristics, unlike the other 6 (!) amazing photos Kurt Hielscher took here. To find acces to the river from where Kurt Hielscher made his photo wasn't that easy. I went through a private garden with a lot of bushes and rubbish to get to the shores. The Grofčanski Most is 30 meters long, 4 meters wide, and 8 meters high.

Kratovo, 26th of June 2018. Photo: Casper Molenaar.

Kratovo is a one and half hour drive west from Skopje but I came from Štip where I stayed for the night. Unfortunately, the time I could spend in Kratovo was limited, and I did not manage to find all the places where the photos were made. I really did my best though, but Kratovo turned out bigger than I thought and I had to move on at some point to Prizren in Kosovo, where I also needed some daylight to find and take the photos and end the day here with a stunning view from its castleruins on the city. To prizren it really takes over three and half hours when you travel through the Sharr Mountain National Park ànd the Prevallë pass by car and that's what I wanted: to collect some views, nature, and a glimpse of some mountain villages when passing by.

Св. Јован отсечен, Kratovo, 26th of June 2018. Photo: Casper Molenaar. 

Though I really had to search going up- and downhill in Kratovo, I really enjoyed wandering around. People were curious and helpful when I was asking around for the right direction and I guess I must have been some appearance with the photocopies and my camera criss-crossing the city.

Kratovo, 1926. Photo: Kurt Hielscher. One of the missed views.

Again, not the exact same place, but also not too far away. I can imagine that, regarding then versus now photography, finding the exact right place can produce an interesting result focussing on each old and new house and the towers.

Grofčanski Most from a different angle.

Kratovo, 26th of June 2018. Photo: Casper Molenaar. 

The City Museum in Kratovo, 26th of June 2018. Photo: Casper Molenaar. 

Discovering the edges of the city there are a few bridges, but I don't think this is the right one.

Kratovo, 26th of June 2018. Photo: Casper Molenaar. 

Below the last two photos I missed so you can imagine I really need to go back to Kratovo one day!

But I did look out for it from different angles on several hills surrounding the city.

A firetruck with an authentic character, like Kratovo itself.

Rush hour at the market on the time I arrived at 9:15 AM. I already drove about one hour coming from Štip where I stayed for the night. I could only stay for three hours, but it was too less and I left in a hurry and had lunch in the car on my way to Prizren in Kosovo.

Below: View on lovely situated Kratovo surrounded by mountains but actually in an old volcano crater.