Córdoba

The moment I walked into the Mezquita de Córdoba was one to never forget. I was totally stunned and overwhelmed. What an enormous beauty! I did not know where to look and it nearly brought me to tears. I saw the same happening to Kim and the boys. It took me a while to realize I had a mission here too with seven (!) copies of Kurt Hielscher's photos under my arm from its interior ànd an additional two from its exterior. It took me quite some time to discover almost all the right spots, but I needed some help. From one photo I did not find the place in the end. Two were not accessible to photograph. Next to that it was quite crowded and dark which wasn't that helpful for me to concentrate on the photographing, but hey, what an experience! 

After the conquest of Córdoba in 711, Muslims, under the threat of expropriation managed to buy half of the Visigothic St. Vincent's Church but it turned out too small for the growing Muslim population, so they also bought the other half of the church, forcing the Catholic community to give up the church. The original church building was demolished and construction of a Mosque began. Abd-ar-Rahman I (756-788) had the marble columns of nearby Roman villas used for this purpose. However, these were too small to get the correct height, but this was achieved by installing a second arch with its unique construction as a result. Today's size of the Mezquita was reached in 987 AD.

Chilling in the yard in front of the Mezquita before getting in.

Once, the Mezquita was the largest Mosque in Europe, second largest after Mecca, and had a capacity to accommodate 20.000 people. Since the Christian reconquest of Córdoba in 1236 AD, the Mezquita has been in use as the cathedral of the Diocese of Córdoba. Over the centuries, various renovations have taken place, so that today both the Moorish and Christian influences are clearly recognizable. Both the ground plan of a traditional Mosque and the Latin cross for a Cathedral can be found in the building. Originally there were about 1200 columns in the main prayer room. In 1523, Charles V gave permission to the Bishop of Córdoba to convert it into a Cathedral. Architect Hermán Ruiz then designed a Cathedral in the heart of the Mosque, for which about 400 columns were removed. The emperor was dissatisfied with the result and is said to have sighed upon seeing the construction: "You have built something that you or others could have built anywhere, but you have destroyed something unique in the world." 

Kim and the boys made fun of me when they saw me maneuver between the horses, their shit and the carriers to find the right angle to make this photo, but I did not lose focus and I think the result is just fine. 

The famous columns with the characteristic double red and white coloured archery bowes. There used to be 2000 of them but 400 were demolished to build a Cathedral within the Mezquita.

Once, the Mezquita was the largest Mosque in Europe, second largest after Mecca, and had a capacity to accommodate 20.000 people. Since the Christian reconquest of Córdoba in 1236 AD, the Mezquita has been in use as the cathedral of the Diocese of Córdoba. Over the centuries, various renovations have taken place, so that today both the Moorish and Christian influences are clearly recognizable. Both the ground plan of a traditional Mosque and the Latin cross for a Cathedral can be found in the building. 

For a long time, I did not know about the story of the column on this photo. When there, I noticed a guide telling tourists a story while surrounding this column, so there must have been a special story to it. Afterwards I sent an e-mail but never received an answer. Ina Facebookgroup about Spain, it was another member, Francisco Meijer, who thaught me that this column is called the "Column of Hell". According to the legend, when you scratch the column with a coin or nail, a sulfur smell is released. So, this column probably finds its origins in the bowels of hell, was the common thought amongst the population. Later, it was found out that the odour was the produced by a chemical reaction that takes place when rubbing with a metal object with sulfuric acid. In the Mezquita there's only one more other column with the same characteristics. Somehow the materials used to build these columns is different than all the others. 

Originally there were about 1200 columns in the main prayer room. In 1523, Charles V gave permission to the Bishop of Córdoba to convert it into a Cathedral. Architect Hermán Ruiz then designed a Cathedral in the heart of the Mosque, for which about 400 columns were removed. The emperor was dissatisfied with the result and is said to have sighed upon seeing the construction: "You have built something that you or others could have built anywhere, but you have destroyed something unique in the world." 

Unfortunately, the Capilla de S.Fernando, was not accesible, but I found a few glimpses from different angles (see below). 

Glimpses of the Capilla de S.Fernando. 

In the Mezquita, 1914-'19. Photo: Kurt Hielscher. I did not find page 53 of the photoalbum from Kurt Hielscher from over 100 years ago. It was simply too much in one visit and Córdoba had more to offer which we also wanted to discover and ofcourse enjoy the beautiful weather in the early spring.

Fachada de la Mezquita de Córdoba, 7th of March 2019. Photo: Casper Molenaar. 

View from the Puente Romano on the city center of Córdoba with the Mezquita, 7th of March 2019. Photo: Casper Molenaar.

On the Puente Romano.

My youngest spontaneously playing Comptine d'un autre été from the movie Amélie invited by a street musician on the Puente Romano.  

My oldest inspired by the Torre de la Calahorra made a drawing.

The famous Albolafia, just next to the Roman Bridge, is one of the key icons of Córdoba. The Water Mill is often used in logodesigns of the city.

Thanks to Rafael Madrid Cañero, I found this fountain!! Unfortunately, a long time after my visit to Córdoba. Today it is situated some 900 meters to the north on the Plaza del Cristo de Gracia. It has been built in 1746 and replaced in 1950. 

"Fuente", 1914-'19. Photo: Kurt Hielscher.

Sometimes it is quite disappointing when you try to make the same photo Kurt Hielscher made over 100 years ago. But still, except for the fuente, everything is still here on this square. New are the road, the cars and the trees. The column was replaced, got a new foundation with stairs and turned a quarter. It might not be the most beautiful place in Córdoba, and believe me Córdoba has lots of beautiful sites, with the photo from Kurt Hielscher in my hands, standing here on the square in the park, one can still feel and imagine what it was like back then. With all these changes the place can hardly be recognized when you only take a look from the exact same position. 

That's why I added some more photos: the first one with the Parroquia del Carmen Puerta Nueva, or in short Iglesia del Carmen or fully: the Parroquia De Nuestra Señora Del Carmen De Puerta Nueva. Originally it was the Monastery of the Carmelitas Calzados established in 1580. Today the Law School is housed in it. Another one with a front view of the column and the third one with a close up of the bell tower of the church in the distance: the Iglesia del Magdalena. The final two photos are from the entrance and interior of the Parroquia del Carmen Puerta Nueva, the 8th of March 2019.  Photos: Casper Molenaar.

The iconic Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos with the Torre de los Leones on the right and a beautiful relaxing park surrounding it, 7th of March 2019. Photo: Casper Molenaar.

Selfie on the Plaza del Potro.

In Córdoba, we stayed at the cosy Hostal Maestre which was just about perfect for us and nicely located with the Plaza del Potro around the corner and close to nearly everything you want to go to in the center of Córdoba.

Some more characteristic views in Córdoba.

Happy family in Córdoba.

Final evening in Córdoba with traditional music just across the street from our Hostal Maestre at a packed Sociedad de Plateros San Francisco.

Below: panoramic view on the Plaza de la Corredera.